Bevels & Chamfers
Figure 15-14. When Chamfering irregular shapes, (A) draw a gauging line around the workpiece and then (B) saw to the line with the table tilted.
The scroll saw table tilts either right or left and locks at any angle from "0" to 45°. This allows you to add decorative bevels or chamfers to workpieces and also makes it possible to cut inlay or relief pieces which will fit into the background with no visible saw kerf. These inlay techniques are described later.
In general scrollwork, almost any shape can be cut with a beveled edge; however, the complexity of the shape and angle and direction of the bevel will limit how smoothly and accurately the cut can be made. For example, outside curves, such as a circle, can be cut very easily even with a 45° bevel, but tight inside curves become more and more difficult as the radius gets smaller and the angle of bevel increases.
It is also important to keep the workpiece on one side of the blade if the bevel is to point in the same direction--either in or out--all the way around the piece. This can limit the complexity of your designs because tight curves and corners may have to be cut in a single pass instead of backing up and approaching them from the opposite direction. Advance planning and your own skills are especially important when cutting pieces where the bevel will be visible on the finished project.
The best way to master bevel cutting is to practice with scrap stock before beginning on a project. Depending on whether you are right or left handed, you'll probably find it more comfortable to tilt the table one way or the other and turn the workpiece either clockwise or counterclockwise. The table tilt and direction of rotation will also determine which way the bevel faces.
Chamfers are similar to bevels except that only a portion of the edge is cut at an angle, so a second pass must be made after the piece is cut to shape.
A common chamfer angle of 45° results in the same amount of stock being cut from the face and the edge of the piece. Other angles will change this relationship. Depending on the angle of cut, the chamfer line can be marked on either the face or the edge of the workpiece to serve as a cutting guide (Figure 15-14).
As with beveling, accurate chamfering is difficult-especially on tight inside turns, so after the chamfer is cut, go back over the edges with sandpaper or a file to remove rough spots or other imperfections.
Continue to Solid Wood Inlays
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